
You may think that you've tasted Valrhona, but have you had these bars? You won't find them at Winterfeldt Chocolates, or even in KaDeWe. But you will find them at Galeria Kaufhof for 4,09€ a bar.
These three bars are called Chocolat Noir de Domaine and bear labels strongly influenced by the wine industry, including a vintage year, plantation and romantic artwork. Unlike the widely distributed Grand Cru line, which is wonderful and comfortingly consistent, these Domaine chocolates are truly exquisite and also extremely hard to find--thus warranting a surprised blog post when they showed up at Galeria!
These particular Domaine chocolates are surrounded in mystery: first of all, all three of these bars are the 2009 vintage, which makes me curious as to whether Valrhona produced a 2010 line at all. Perhaps it has been discontinued and the only bars left are at Kaufhof. I wasn't able to penetrate Valrhona's website to the point where I could even locate this product-- but I'm also not known for my patience. Online references are either unhelpful or in languages I don't speak, so I will do my best to describe them here.
Chocolat Noir de Domaine Gran Couva 2009, Plantation Gran Couva, Origine Trinidad 64%
Nose and top notes: leather, walnut, hazelnut, butter, bread, dried cherries
Base notes: treacle (Rübensirop for German speakers), candied orange, tangy green apple
End of mouth: mild, long and buttery with a subtle tang
This chocolate tastes like what would happen to a bunch of Trinitario beans that spent a week in a luxury spa, sitting in the sun, getting bathed and massaged and moisturized. At the end, they just melt in a gorgeous fusion of butter and tangy fruits. The bread, butter and nut notes keep it from getting too tangy and the fruits keep it from being too boring. A brilliant chocolate.
CS rating: 93
(click here for the CS rating scale)
Chocolat Noir de Domaine Ampamakia 2009, Plantation Millot, Origine Madagascar 64%
Nose: astringent, leather, bark, dried grass
Top: lime, anise (?)
Base: lime, papaya
End of mouth: tangy and long, lime, leather, musk
I know that it sounds like a description of your father's aftershave, but it tastes divine. This is a very un-chocolatey tasting chocolate. In fact, I'm pretty sure that if you blindfolded an average person they wouldn't necessarily recognize it as chocolate at all. But for fans of Madagascan chocolate, this has all of the lime, leather and papaya notes we have grown to love and crave. Also a brilliant chocolate, but it didn't blow my skirt up as much as the Gran Couva.
CS rating: 91
Chocolat Noir de Domaine Palmira Fino Criollo 2009, Plantation Palmira, Origine Venezuela 64%
Nose: earthy, vegetal, saddle leather
Top note: prune, grape
Base note:
End of mouth:
This is my husband's favorite of the three, and after tasting them all side-by-side, I can see why. As you can see by my description above (or lack thereof), this chocolate is very difficult to break into its constituent parts. It hits you as one mysterious and orgasmic whole. On the label it says 'from its legendary soil are born the characteristic notes of honey and nuts found in Palmira chocolate'. If there is a honey taste in this chocolate, it would have to be one of the fancy kinds they have here in Germany, like linden honey or pine honey or lavender honey (except none of these sorts, exactly). Wow. A superstar chocolate that gives us all a reason to live.
CS rating: 97